digs, dwellings, and dens - wild about gardening

digs, dwellings, and dens

for our feathered friends

there are many possible additions to your backyard that will please the birds. The dwindling existence of natural cavities can be augmented with a few nesting structures. You can also attract hungry birds by recycling a few household items and filling them with the foods they love. Add instant appeal to your birdbath with a simple trick to create the sound of moving water. Or, you can remedy a shortage of shelter for birds, especially important in the winter months, by throwing together a brush pile. All these projects can be easily done by following the given instructions.

nesting box | a backyard buffet | the trickle effect | brush pile

nesting box

how to | installation | maintenance

Approximately twenty-five Canadian bird species nest in the cavities of decaying trees. For many reasons, nesting sites are becoming harder to find, so these birds must settle for surrogate homes. A nesting box can be a real bonus for birds that rely on these cavities to raise their young. Some species, like the eastern bluebird, have declined seriously. One reason is the dwindling number of natural cavities available to them. In some areas, small pockets have been able to hang on because of nesting box programs organized throughout their range.

This nesting box will appeal mostly to bluebirds or tree swallows, depending on where you place it. You can adjust it to attract other birds by varying its size and the size and height of the entrance hole according to the accompanying table.

To create this nesting box you will require a single one-by-eight piece of lumber and 1.5-inch (4 cm) wood screws. Use wood that resists weathering, such as cedar, pine, or redwood, but not pressure-treated lumber because it can be toxic to wildlife. Scrap pieces of lumber, if the right size, are also suitable.

how to:

Cut the pieces as illustrated. The entrance hole must measure 1.5 inches (4 cm) in diameter and be 6 inches (15 cm) above the floor. Pre-drill screw holes to prevent splitting the wood.
Attach the sides to the back. Check that the roof sits flat. Place the floor flush with the sides and attach. Position the front panel as shown, securing with one pivot screw on each side. Check the movement of the hinges, then add the securing screw - the screw you will remove to clean the box. Then attach the roof.
Drill a few small holes (1/4") in the floor near the walls for moisture drainage and sand any rough edges. It is better not to paint or stain the box. If you do paint the box, use colours birds are attracted to - dull green or brown - and leave the interior, and the area around the entrance hole, in its natural state. Avoid lead-based alkyd paints and wood preservatives as they can be toxic. Pure linseed oil is a good choice to help preserve the outside of the box.
Do not attach a platform or perch outside the box. This will only obstruct the bird's entrance and encourage predators to raid the box.

Nesting Box Dimensions

Species

Entrance hole diameter

Height of hole above floor

Size of floor panels

Height of wall panels

Height above ground

American kestrel 7.5 cm (3") 31 cm (12") 25 cm x 25 cm (10" x 10") 40 cm (16") 6-9 m (20-30 ft)

Bufflehead 6 cm (2.5") 30 cm (12") 15 x 15 cm (6" x 6") 37 cm (15") 3 m (10 ft)

Chickadee 3 cm (1 1/4") 15 cm (6") 9 cm x 9 cm (3.5" x 3.5") 20 cm (8") 2-5 m (6.5-16 ft)

Downy woodpecker 3 cm (1 1/4") 15 cm (6") 9 cm x 9 cm (3.5" x 3.5") 20 cm (8") 2-3.5 m (6.5-11.5 ft)

Flying squirrel 3 cm (1 1/4") 15 cm (6") 10 cm x 14 cm (4" x 5.5") 20 cm (8") 3.5-4 m (11.5-13 ft)

Great crested flycatcher 5 cm (2") 15 cm (6") 15 cm x 15 cm (6" x 6") 20 cm (8") 3-5 m (10-16 ft)

Grey and red squirrel 7.5 cm (on side) (3") 50 cm (20") 25 cm x 28 cm (10" x 11") 60 cm (23.5") 6-9 m (20-30 ft)

Hairy woodpecker 4 cm (1.5") 22-30 cm (8.5-12") 15 cm x 15 cm (6" x 6") 30-35 cm (12-14") 3-5 m (10-16 ft)

House wren 2.5-3 cm (1-1 1/4") 10-15 cm (4-6") 10 cm x 10 cm (4" x 4") 15-20 cm (6-8") 2-3 m (6.5-10 ft)

Northern flicker 6 cm (2.5") 35 cm (14") 15 cm x 15 cm (6" x 6") 40 cm (16") 2-5 m (6.5-16 ft)

Nuthatch 3 cm (1 1/4") 15 cm (6") 9 cm x 9 cm (3.5" x 3.5") 20 cm (8") 2 m (6.5 ft)

Red-headed woodpecker 5 cm (2") 25 cm (10") 15 cm x 15 cm (6" x 6") 40 cm (16") 4-9 m (13-30 ft)

Screech owls 7.5 cm (3") 31 cm (12") 20 cm x 20 cm (8" x 8") 40 cm (16") 4-9 m (13-30 ft)

Woodduck 7.5 x 10 cm oval (3" x 4") 46 cm (18") 30 cm x 30 cm (12" x 12") 61 cm (24") 2.5-4.5 m (8-15 ft)

installation

Erect the box as soon as you spot your first dandelion or if you spot a tree swallow or bluebird. Putting it up too early will only encourage pest species such as the House Sparrow and European Starling to take ownership of your box. These introduced species, which are aggressive and often drive off our native species, don't require our help to survive.
Place the nesting box in a spot that gets some sun and turn the entrance away from the direction of wind and rain.
For bluebirds, place nesting boxes on 5- to 6-foot (1.5-1.8-m) poles in quiet, open fields, orchards, or pastures with some nearby trees or wires. Leave a minimum 300 feet (about 100 m) between boxes.
For tree swallows, situate boxes on 5- to 6-foot (1.5-1.8-m) poles in backyards, front yards, near fields, a river or pond. (This species will possibly use boxes on the sides of buildings or under eaves.) Leave about 50 feet (15 m) between boxes or make sure they are not visible to each other.
Metal poles are the best choice for mounting nesting boxes as it prevents predators from accessing the box. They should also be placed at a sufficient distance from trees and other structures so that squirrels and cats cannot jump to the box.
An alternative is to use a wooden post but slip a length of PVC piping around the post to prevent predators from climbing it.
Mounting nesting boxes on trees leaves the nest more vulnerable to predators. If you are placing the box on a tree be sure to install a predator guard. These tree guards help protect the nest while also providing a good place for bats to roost. See Hot Under the Collar for more information.
Make sure that your box is mounted securely. You don't want the first heavy rain or windstorm to blow it down wreaking the house and possibly killing any resident nestlings.

maintenance

Take down and clean the box in the fall and, for bluebirds, between broods to rid it of parasites. It's a good idea to wear a face mask (available at hardware stores) to avoid breathing fungi and parasites. Scrub your box with a stiff brush and pour boiling water through it for disinfecting purposes. Allow it to air dry thoroughly in the sun if possible.
Leaving the box up all winter will encourage mice to take over uncleaned boxes or allow pest species to move in before migrant birds return in the spring.
Check on a regular basis that the structure is in good repair. In the fall, once inhabitants have left, you can take it down to repair a loose roof, warped bottom, or cracked side.
If damage occurs to the box during the nesting season, make repairs only when essential. Plan your moves and be quick. If you must remove the nest and eggs or young, remove the whole nest, make the repairs, and move away so the parents can come back quickly. Do not handle the eggs or young birds unless unavoidable and if so wear gloves and wash up right after.

a backyard buffet

In winter, when food is scarce, birds need more energy than usual to keep warm. A feeding station that provides nutritious food for hungry birds is like an oasis in the bleak cold.

simple feeders

A string of peanuts hung from a branch looks scrumptious to a blue jay.
An old mesh onion bag filled with suet of pan drippings and hung from a tree branch works well.
Pine cones coated with a mix of cornmeal and suet can be dangled from branches.
A hanging log drilled with holes for suet makes a cheap, handy feeder that gets high ratings from birds as well.
Upright corncobs on a board look scrumptious to birds.
Recycled household items like an empty milk carton also make great feeders.
If you build your own feeder, don't weatherproof it with preservatives as most are poisonous.
Paint should not be used on birdfeeders as the particles may be harmful to birds if eaten. Natural colours are better anyway as birds are wary of bright, conspicuous colours.
See new bird feeding handout for more tips on bird feeding

the trickle effect
Wildlife can often be lured by the tempting sound of dripping water. Try rigging a recycled plastic or metal container from a branch just over a bird bath. An old coffee can is perfect.

Paint it black, dull green, or brown - birds are suspicious of bright colours.
Make a tiny hole in the bottom.
Fill the container with water. You will have to experiment with getting the drip just right - not too fast or you'll be busy filling the container every half-hour.
Try punching a small hole, then plugging it with a wad of fabric.
Hang a dripping water bucket over a patch of earth or sand to provide mud for butterflies. Butterflies absorb the mineral salts they need from moist sand or mud.

brush pile
Brush piles shelter wildlife from cold winter and hot summer weather and provide protection from predators and nesting cover. They are used by birds, small mammals and reptiles.

To create a brush pile follow these steps:

Select 8 or so straight untrimmed branches about 2 metres long.
Arrange the branches in a teepee-like framework with butt ends anchored in the ground and tips interlocking. The idea is to create an internal space where occupants can perch safely off the ground.
Pile evergreen boughs on the top and sides of this framework to form a cone. Boughs from discarded Christmas trees can be added.
For further benefit, train climbing vines, such as Virginia creeper, scarlet runner beans, or honeysuckle onto the brush pile during the planting season.
Each year, add a few new boughs. Leftover corn stalks will make a welcome addition to the brush pile in the fall