frequently asked questions

Problem Wildlife

How do I deal with problem raccoons?

Raccoons are found in both rural and urban areas. They’re very curious, which often gets them into trouble. They’ll get into our garbage, attics, and even our chimneys. Click here for answers to some commonly asked questions.

How do I deal with problem squirrels?

Squirrels often find themselves in conflicts with people. They can gain entry into our attics and chimneys, dig up our lawns, and maybe even find their way into our living spaces. Many of these occurrences are common and you may even be able to resolve it yourself.

I’m having a problem with animals eating my plants. Can you suggest plants that will accommodate these animals but still allow an attractive garden?

Certain plants are said to be critter-resistant. However, there are no guarantees. These plants tend to be very aromatic, such as some herbs. Plants that are thorny and prickly tend to be critter-resistant too. Refer to CWF’s list of deer-resistant plants. [ link to question]

There are also a number of taste and scent deterrents [ link to new WAG website on dealing with problem wildlife] you can apply to your gardens. Remember to use as many as possible and reapply after it rains.

Something is digging up my lawn. What can I do?

Warm, dry summers can be very favourable for Scarab beetles, June bugs, and Japanese beetles. Check for the white grub larvae of any of these in your lawn.

Raccoons and skunks will dig for grubs — they make for a delicious meal. They can hear them crunching on the roots of grass. While raccoons and skunks can often make a mess of your lawn in their search for grubs, it is the grubs that are doing the real damage. The solution lies in controlling your grub problem. A pesticide-free solution is the use of nematodes. For information on nematodes and their application, see the question, “How do I deal with grubs?” (link to the appropriate question)

If the damage was done during the winter, then moles may be the culprits. The solution is still the same, though; you need to control your grub problem.

When the snow melted, we noticed our lawn is riddled with molehills. What can we do to eradicate them?

It could be that the moles are trying to tell you something. While moles will eat bulbs and the roots of plants, when they dig burrows under lawns it’s usually to eat the grubs of cutworms and larger beetles.

During winter months, these juicy morsels tempt moles to dig where they would not normally do so. Grubs are very damaging; they eat at the root system of your lawn, resulting in dead patches. Moles are actually doing you a favour by preying on the grubs and are likely leaving behind less damage than if they left the grubs alone.

It’s understandable that you don’t want your lawn torn up. However, if you deter the moles without dealing with the reason they’re there, more moles will simply move in for the food source.

An environmentally friendly method of deterring moles is to plant castor oil plants and drench the soil around mole tunnels and mounds with castor oil. Moles will not cross a castor oil barrier. You can make the castor oil go farther and get the same results by diluting it with water. In late fall, spray the border around your lawn with castor oil. A two-inch strip should be sufficient. In late summer, check your lawn for brown spots of dead grass, which would indicate that grubs have been feeding on the roots of your grass. If so, double your spraying of castor oil. You can also try placing an empty soda bottle near the entrance to one of their holes — the sound of the wind in it can scare them off. Assuming the moles are after grubs, you’ll also need to deal with your grub problem. For information on nematodes and their application, see the question, “How do I deal with grubs?”.

How do I animal-proof my house and when is the best time to do this?

Fall is generally the best time to animal-proof your house. That is when baby animals like squirrels and raccoons should be big enough to be coming and going with mom, but before animals like groundhogs and skunks enter hibernation or become less active for winter. For information on inspecting your home, proper timing, and proper animal-proofing techniques, click here.

How can I protect young trees and shrubs from rodents?

You can use tree wraps to protect trees and shrubs from rodents. Your choice of material will depend on the animal causing the damage. Plastic wrap is the easiest to install but doesn’t hold up as well as metal mesh. Heavy plastic wrap will protect plants from deer and most rodents. Wire mesh is stronger and better able to keep such creatures as beavers at bay. However, the size of the mesh opening is important. If it’s too large rodents can get through it. You can also use tubes made out of solid plastic. Most garden stores and nurseries sell these products and should be able to advise you on the best selection for your area and for the particular trees and shrubs you’re hoping to protect.

Are there suggestions for keeping deer and moose away from shrubs during the winter months? Is there anything that can be used or is the only remedy to cover all the shrubs with burlap?

Wrapping cedar shrubs with burlap is effective but it can also be hard on shrubs. Another option is to surround trees and shrubs with temporary snow fencing. While this may not be the prettiest solution, it does seem to work. One resource suggests using 5-cm (2-inch) wooden stakes, about 1.0 m to 1.5 m high, to surround the trees. Place them far enough out so deer can’t reach the branches. Take into account the height of the snow when choosing the height of your stakes. If you’re in an area of heavy snowfall, you might want to make them taller.

These same methods should also work for moose, although you would have to take their greater height into consideration.

How can I keep porcupines away?

Porcupines are generally not a threat unless you have dogs around. They will go their own way unless harassed. They can, however, cause damage to trees and, occasionally, other wooden objects. You can protect trees individually by preventing porcupines from climbing them.

Try placing a metal band about 60 to 80 cm in height around the tree at about 1 metre off the ground. For winter protection, ensure the band is 1 metre above the expected snow height. Porcupines are not very efficient climbers so this should keep them at bay. Leaving the band up for extended periods of time is not recommended since insects may eventually accumulate under it.

close window