shade garden

Written by Gaston Tessier
Photographs by Maria McRae

Over the last fifteen years, I have observed young trees and shrubs maturing in my yard with a certain amount of apprehension at the increasing shade. I considered shade to be a drawback for gardening because it limits your choice of plants. However, much to my surprise, shady spots do not have to be a problem. In fact, they presented me with the opportunity to grow a diversity of plants that add depth, interest, and a certain amount of mystery to my property. Shade became an asset instead of a liability.

I have made the most of areas where sunlight is now limited by using plants that thrive in the shade. Hundreds of flowers, trees, shrubs, ground covers, vines, ferns, ornamental grasses, herbs, and vegetables can grow in shady settings. Using your imagination you can create a wide variety of shade gardens, including natural woodland and wildflower gardens.

Shade is more hospitable to both plants and people. With the hot summers of the last few years, afternoon shade has almost been a necessity for the survival of many sun-loving plants. It is also far more pleasant to garden in partial shade on a warm summer day than to weed, water, or deadhead under the hot sun.

Now I can stroll the winding path through my woodland where there is always something new to discover around the next bend. Woodland and other natural garden styles that work so well in shady settings bring the added bonus of beneficial wildlife. By planting shrubs and trees that provide fruits, berries, and cover for birds and small mammals and by adding a source of water with a birdbath, I can now share my backyard oasis with a host of other creatures.

Shady gardens offer quiet beauty. The subtle colors and interesting shapes of shade plants can be quite sophisticated and wonderfully soothing. Instead of blazing red and brassy yellow, one works mostly with luminous white and soft pastels. Instead of large showy flowers, your garden will be filled with smaller, more graceful and delicate flowers, such as columbines, astilbes, and bleeding hearts. Shade also gives us the opportunity to feature foliage plants of diverse shades and textures.

A large plus in my case is that shade gardens are easier to maintain than sunny ones. They don't need to be watered or fertilized as often, fewer weeds grow, and there are generally fewer pests to contend with.

There are several different types of shade garden.

Partial shade — is the easiest to work with. It is found in locations that receive three to six hours of sun a day, either morning or afternoon, or ones that receive dappled sunlight all day. Many plants grow well in partial shade so you will have plenty of choices. A garden located east or west of a tall hedge, wall, or building falls in this category.

bleeding heartSuggested perennial flowers:
Meadow anemone (Anemone canadensis), Obedient plant (Physostegia virginiana), Goat's beard (Aruncus dioicus), Astilbe (Astilbe sp.), Bergenia (Berginia cordifolia), Black Snakeroot (Cimifuga racemosa), Fringed bleeding heart (Dicentra eximia), Foxglove (Digitalis sp.), Leopard's bane (Doronicum sp.), Hardy geranium (Geranium sp.), and Siberian iris (Iris sibirica).

Light shade — is the next degree of shadiness. It is usually found under younger trees with low branches or mature trees with a high, lacy canopy. On the ground underneath, shifting patterns of light and shadow change throughout the day. Nearby buildings, which are located even some distance from the garden can also cast light shade.

phloxSuggested perennial flowers:
Common monkshood (Aconitum napellus), Wild columbine (Aquilegia canadensis), Bellflower (Campanula sp.), Common bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis), Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), Joe-Pye weed (Eupatorium purpureum), Daylily (Hemerocallis sp.), Virginia bluebells (Mertensia virginica), Bee-balm (Monarda didyma), Wild blue phlox (Phlox divaricata), Spiderwort (Tradescantia sp.), Canada lily (Lilium canadensis), and Clematis (Clematis sp.).

Medium shade — is found under trees with branches 20 feet or more from the ground that have a fairly open canopy. It may be defined as an area that is shady for four or five of the brightest daylight hours, but receives sun at other times. It can also occur where a north-facing wall, because of its color or glass, reflects sunlight. Rhododendrons and azaleas grow well in medium shade. Flowers native to woodlands with heavier dappled shade can be grown in medium shade. They will produce more flowers, smaller leaves, and shorter stems.

Suggested perennial flowers:
trilliumShooting star (Dodecatheon meadia), Cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis), Forget-me-nots (Myosotis scorpioides), Giant Solomon's seal (Polygonatum commutatum), Lily-of-the valley (Convallaria majalis), Periwinkle (Vinca minor), Primrose (Primula sp.), Trillium (Trillium sp.), Globeflower (Trollius sp.), and Trout lily (Erythronium sp.).

Full shade — exists beneath the branches of mature trees with dense foliage, usually with large leaves and a spreading canopy. Maples and oaks will cast full shade during the growing season after they have leafed out. It is also found at the base of a tall, north-facing wall or hedge. Remember that plants growing in low light are taller than normal, since they are constantly searching for more light. The best plants for fully shaded conditions are those found in the woods in their native habitat.

foamflowerSuggested perennial flowers:
Plantain lily (Hosta sp.), Bloodroot (Sanguisorba canadensis), False Solomon's seal (Smilacina racemosa), Foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia), Violets (Viola sp), and Dutchman's breeches (Dicentra cucullaria).

Heavy shade — this dense shade is the hardest one to garden in. Mature evergreen trees or a nearby building will cast a cool shadow year-round. Shade cast by a solid wall or building is uniformly dark. About the only solution for such an area is to grow things in containers that can be moved to a sunnier area for a few days to let them regain their strength. A permanent garden will not survive but periwinkle might be worth a try.

The most sensible way to create a flourishing shade garden is to develop a good understanding of the kind and quality of shade present in your yard and choose plants that naturally thrive under these conditions. As you re-organize your yard to accommodate more shade, remember that the time of day that your garden is shaded is very important. Morning sun and afternoon shade is ideal for growing plants in a shady location. Do not plant a shade garden under large trees with shallow wide-spreading roots. Any plant growing within a tree's root zone must compete with the tree for moisture and nutrients. Trees with especially greedy root systems will out-compete the smaller, less aggressive roots of garden plants.

I have learned that an area that is shaded by deciduous trees in the summer has plenty of sun in the spring where I can grow different kinds of bulbs. Daffodils, narcissus, tulips and grape hyacinths flower happily provided they receive sun when they send up buds and come into bloom. Primrose, forget-me-not and trout lily also do well under these conditions.

By pruning selectively, I have been able to let more light into my garden. If you still have too much shade after pruning, I would strongly recommend giving the task to a professional. They have the knowledge, proper tools, and liability insurance to do the job.

I moved my sun-loving perennials to an area where I had not originally intended to garden. I also grow some sun lovers in containers on a south-facing patio. Sometimes the most rewarding gardens are those that begin as an imaginative solution to a particular problem. Think creatively as you assess sun and shade patterns on your property. A garden can take shape wherever the best growing conditions are found. The size of my lawn decreased because of that decision. Flowers are much nicer to look at and pollinators thank me for providing food while encouraging them to do their most important task for our environment.

Most of the shade problems you may face as a gardener can be solved in one way or another. You simply need to find the solutions that work best for you and your landscape.